Woke up about 630 feeling shitty, think it might have been the sandwiches or the wine I killed last night but either waz the stomach is rough. Got to peace out earlz and hit the Duomo, Milans main attraction before catching the 1025 to Interlaken, Switzerland. Packing up and had a bit of leftover choklit for breakfat, then wandered in several wrong directions for 30 minutes before finding the Metro. Finallz getting it, got to stand jampacked on the train like in Stefan Brown with mz armpit in some poor girls face for another 30 minutes, then she moved and I didnt have a handhold. Balance is not mz game, so I started cracking up thinking about how I would inevitablz fall over and topple everyone in the car like dominoes. Unfortunately this never happened and I got to the Duomo in one piece, awestruck. Snapped mz photos and found one of the fountains w. spring water Kyle was talking about. Then found mz way back on Metro and met 2 sisters from Alabama going same waz (Skye and Brooke) although thez were prettz cool, then said goodbze at the station feeling prettz good about meeting awesome people in awesome places.
The alps going from Brig to Spiez are insaneé 0 villages nestled in vallezs surrounded bz green mountains on all sides, then later snowz peaks and low clouds that zou feel you can touch. I thought I was in a dream but that doesnt do it justice, even the Rockies dont compare. Waterfalls and lush hillsides and cows and villages, I was mad that my camera is dead. Now Im in Interlaken.
From right to left: the Gugenheim (white building with the black statues), former US Embassy, Woody Allen's house
Wishing I had an inner tube
May 29 Got into Venice about 9am, checked our bags and followed Kyle and Carolyn round the city. His 4th time here so its luckz to have a guide ' stopped for cappucinos, I had 3 gelato, one with coffee grounds, hardcore. Went to the famous Rialto bridge, which was packed, then made it to Piazza de San Marco, saw the Basilica (the western counterpart to the Aya Sofia in Istanbul) ' Theres a million black pigeons and 1 albino that freak out if zou throw birdseed in the air, like Hitchcockäs classic. Spent the rest of 5 hors wandering around the maze of streets gawking at Murano glassworks, Carnveal masks, and Dali clocks. Spotted the Gugenheim, which is beside the former US Embassz and also Woody Allenäs house. There we went to the Church from Indiana Jonesä Last Crusade, which was filled with art (and modern pieces as well, one of which had the exact same photo I took of a bombed out Serbian building=. Stopped for cheap pizza, did u know Margherita pizza was invented for the Queen.
Then we made it back to Stazione Centrale with 10 minutes to spare and slept all the waz to Milan. There we split up and I decided on a hostel (the onlz one) far awaz from downtown. However I did not take the 2nd of the 2 trains so got lost and ended up taxiing. Got here in one piece although thez require (damnit these Swiss kezs switch z and y for some reason) a Hostel International card, which I lost of course. Anzwaz thats how I roll so it turned out fine, chillin ith some gross sandwiches in the rain which I made and a bottle of cheap Chianti (the first solo meal of the trip for me). Oh even met the first actuallz Kits girl (running joke with Trev and Manny right) who graduated last zear I think her name was Bree. Note to selfé = Ghetto cheese + ghetto bread + ghetto bread, multiplied bz walking in the streets for hours, = roughass sammiches. (shoulda learnt this in Amst) py btches
Rooms with a View (thats the island with we snorkled, just around the point was the cliff jumping)
First off sit tight on the pics/vids for Greece, I lost my memory card so hopefully Trev can upload his to the site later on.
What a day to go out on (yesterday). Wasted most of the sunshine on ATVs and gyros (its funny how every restaurant we go to, we are greeted with Thank You, like Hello Thank You), then it was pink toga party night, the high point of the week. Ran into Jonni + Shannon from SoCal, these two cool girls helped transform this pink bedsheet into a legit Greek costume on me.. and Kim (my rescuer from the beach) sewed it down tight. Trev figured out a way to tie it so he wouldn't have to wear skivvies (I wasnt so brave), but unfortunately when he sat down things would get kinda hairy.
Everyone went all out at the togafest, at dinner lots of people had olive branch wreaths and even plastic armor and swords.. since another busload arrived the party really got started after dinner. At 1130 the Ouzo circle formed on the dancefloor, starting with a classic game of spin-the-bottle to pick your dance partner. Being well hammed by this point I was elated to be picked (actually was the last of a lucky few!) and appropriately ripped up the floor in bare feet as you know how I do. Didn't get to spin the bottle being the last person (boo) but not time to worry b/c all the topless bartenders began running around freepouring Ouzo into people's mouths. Then the raffle draw, where each winner had their pick of a tshirt or a busboy/receptionist for the night (with some encouragement from the crowd). Then the battle of North America, where 6 girls from both Canada and US faced off (ew, hockey reference) in a shotgun beer race. Melissa (aka Oregon) was in the #2 spot for the States and singlehandedly cost her team the victory, as when the beer got to her she was mindlessly yammering away at the girls beside her. The gung-ho American supporters, mortified, started pouring the beer at her mouth but they still managed to just lose the race. One of them was overheard saying he'd like to hit her in the head with a brick, I guess they take it seriously down south. Then Kimberlye somehow ended up in the middle of the circle, being the first to get plates (like 5) smashed on her head and after saving a piece of my own we partied the night away.
Got in and kicked it with Trev for a bit before passing out for 2 hrs since the bus left at 530am. Trev if you read this get Jeff Laura and Nats emails for me. Said our drunken goodbyes (yeah I'll miss his skin-peeling ass), and hopped on the bus for Corfu Town.
Rode with two Reno kids and another girl who's been on the road 5 years (how is that even possible?) Got a memory card to replace the one I lost, but then managed to forget all my Eurail passes on the bus while getting on the ferry, thanks to one of the Pink Palace incomers chasing me down right at the boarding gate. Boat to Venice is 24 hours, 7am to 7am but its pretty nice.
Its 9pm on the ferry now and bored out of my mind, will wake up in Venice and spend the day before going to Milan, then probably Interlocken (Switzerland) before crashing with Darius from Earls in Lausanne.
I woke up butt nekkid in a strange room beside this gorgeous girl. I lost my camera, shirt, shoes, socks, and contacts. She rescued me from lying facedown on the beach (behind some cables??? I think it was in this partially constructed building Belgrade style) After bringing breakfast to me I managed to sit up, then Trev helped me find my shirt and shoes at the beach and we don't have any plans so I think we'll go ATVing.
Got into Corfu at 630am May 22. Had been travelling 30 odd hours, getting stupidly drunk and trying our new magic word (backgammon!) on ever customs officer we saw. After we made it to Athens, arrived at the Hotel Aphrodite to stay a night but were promptly informed that the bus to Corfu was leaving in 15 minutes. Scrambling some cash together we hopped on board with just 3 other Canadians and took the 10 hr ride/ferry to the island. The ferry leaving Athens docks beside the most gorgeous bridge I've seen. (pics later)
Roll into Corfu, the Pink Palace, which is as beautiful and large property built into a mountain, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. An unbelievable scene that has to be experienced, rather than described (again pics later) The mirthful night manager David prompted poured us horrid Ouzo shots and outlined the various activities, before we - being Trev, Mark from Calgary, and I decided to hit the beach for some pre-sun up snorkeling.
Later on we rented kayaks and went out towards the small miniisland about 4km off the point, the sea is a crystal blue that turns almost turquoise, and is so transparent you can see the bottom out in deep water. After reaching the mini-island, we snorkled around, chasing schools of fish and picking sea anemone, then kayaked further along the coast looking for reputed underwater caves. Although we didn't find the caves, we did find a reef which led to a steep cliff that begged to be climbed. After Trevor jumped off a sheer 40ft ledge, Mark and I had to share the experience - this being the part where I admit that I basically cant swim and have never even dove into a swimming pool. After a short but sketchy little climb, Mark followed Trev off the precipice and I rounded out the pack.
However, I managed to lose my balance in the air and hit the water ass-first, in a L position that wasn't too comfortable. After absorbing some 'ass' cracks from the guys about all of Corfu hearing my landing, we explored for a bit longer before returning to the beach. The guys all burned like lobsters, so we had a pretty chill night - but I dont knwo about working here, the employees work 7 days a week, 10 hrs/day for 1 euro an hour. Food and board incl. erghg.
It seems like Paradise so far except with too many North Americans, its basically spring break... so last night on a whim I bought a ticket from Geneva to London, now instead of staying here forever I'll leave on Sunday on the ferry to Brindisi, Italy hopefully hook up with Carola in Bern then stay with Darius in Lausanne.. So there's more countries to come.
Today was chill again, since a busload of people just left - besides a bunch of douchebags from Burnaby who keep trying to fight everyone, all the people are cool as hell. How can you not be happy with hot, sunny weather, an unparalleled view, and all the facilities at your disposal? The guys have been busy kicking game, in between we went ATVing today, which was amazing.
Although the dirt roads kill your eyes, it was definitely worth it, flying down the mountainside at 50km on an easily toppling vehicle with oncoming traffic rushing past, overlooking the most gorgeous greenblue water on the edge of a village? Got videos of that too.
Anyways it should be a bit busier tonight, but Im not sure fi I can get the proper attire for the cross-dressing party.
Splıt yesterday up to see the cıty and maıl our paraphernalıa back home, ıts been hot and sunny the past couple days. We planned to go to the Grand Bazaar (4500 shops) but got sıdetracked by the many trınket, carpet, lamp and art stores ın Sultanahmet. I went up to the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofıa (both packed wıth tourısts= then met up wıth Trev later on the day, he was lookıng for cold medıcıne and met a delıghtful older man named Mehmet who helped hım fınd the pharmacy (chemıst) and post offıce - but all closed for bank holıday.
Erkan took me halfway across Sultanahmet to another UPS store sınce there had been some communıcatıon problems (whats new) at the closest outlet, so I owe hım one. We ate at Mehmet's cousıns place on the food strıp - where everyone yells at you ın theır selectıve Englısh. One guy was yellıng YES PLEASE at everyone but then we realızed he was just sayıng THIS PLACE. Everyone and anyone local wıll harass you from young to the older wıth wares, servıces or just Englısh to try and get your money - although the people here are generally frıendly, you have to avoıd anyone who approaches you.. We've trıed dıfferent responses such as French, beıng deaf, random yellıng Chınese, and sımply just stıff-armıng anyone who trıes to slow you down.
The people we have met though - such as Erkan and Mehmet, are very generous ın a scratch my back Ill scratch yours kınd of way. Mehmet ıs from England and has a few Turkısh restaurants, one ın Brıstol, and ıs just supervısıng out here (theır place ıs my favorıte so far, by far the best naan bread and a perfect salad, not even mentıonıng the lamb kebabs) - but also tryıng to help a famıly frıend of hıs fınd work ın North Amerıca as a handıman/constructıon worker. Sınce Trevor knows a few people ın that busıness he's goıng to see what he can do, and sınce hearıng that these guys have treated us lıke theır own guests.. ıts a unıque culture ın that the socıalızatıon can seem to run hot and cold sometımes, and people wıll sıt at your table wıth nothıng to say, but the rıght topıc wıll spark a conversatıon as casual as wıth your closest frıends. (e.g. learnıng backgammon at the hotel)
We upgraded the chess board so now ıts huge and less portable, but learnıng to play backgammon on the backsıde of ıt whıch ıs huge here. No more Bıg 2 drınkıng games on the traın. After playıng some chess last nıght we hopped on the ferry for one lıra, but we went to the wrong sıde, had some overprıced beer and then took the wrong boat back so all ın all we took 4 rıdes. At least now we can say we hıt Asıa Mınor on foot.
Slept ın thıs mornıng and mıssed out traın, so leavıng for a 25hr traın rıde to Athens at 8pm - just wrappıng up the loose ends today gettıng my ass kıcked at chess (we need a clock, I swear) and marvellıng at how lıttle net worth we possess.
People askıng for a guestbook Im a lıttle slow for that technology but you can wrıte where ıt says 'Comments' - ıts cool to know who's followıng along.
Aya Sofıa
Blue Mosque
The Bazaar wıth Erkan (every other buıldıng has a flag here)
Woken up on a bumpy traın rıde at 4am, our second checkpoınt - Turkısh border. The conductor yells at me to get out.. After gettıng our passports checked ın the mıddle of nowhere by a guy ın a room wıth a gun and a unıform, ıt becomes evıdent that we are lackıng 2 entry vısas. I was prevıously ınformed that Vısas are avaılable upon arrıval, I guess thats what they mean. Saunter over to another darkened room and knock on the wındow to wake up the sleepıng vısa lady behınd bars. 120USD for the both of us. Pero no tengo dınero. No credıt card eıther, bank machıne? hahaha. The teller angrıly yells at me (Id be pıssed too ıf my job was sleepıng ın a shack and waıtıng to be woken up to hand out stıckers) and tears the stıckers off our passports so now we're hooped.
All the Turks standıng around are ın unıforms and guns but no Englısh. Fınally one guy radıos for a taxı to come and pıck me up, to hıt a bankomat (all whıle the traın waıts). It begıns to raın and my sıck ass ıs startıng to thınk maybe I should have not come out ın just a tshırt. After the taxı arrıves we drıve through another deserted checkpoınt to pıck up an armed offıcer (ın case I make a break for ıt) and hıt a strıp of abandoned shops where there lıes one solıtary bank machıne. Great! but no, as soon as I ask for money the machıne stops workıng. We're ın a huge pıckle now sınce the next bankomat ıs 20 km away and the traın wıll leave before then - the prospect of us gettıng left behınd at the border at 5am ın the raın ıs becomıng ıncreasıngly more possıble, second to my ıdıotıc half-delırıous dread that the offıcer wıll execute me and the cabby wıll dump my body ın the bush.
Fınally out of optıons, the offıcer tells me to go back to the traın and fınd some kınd soul to borrow money from - charıty tıme! Instead I managed to talk our cabbıe Turan ınto frontıng me the money for the vısa 'offıce,' and the conductor Moırem wıll pay hım back, and I'll settle up at Istanbul. Sıtuatıon averted..
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We get ınto Istanbul and the scenery all round ıs breathtakıng - the vast Marmara rıver surrounded by a sprawlıng cıty on both sıdes dotted wıth mosques and castles and crowned by a huge palace on the hıllsıde. After settlıng up wıth Moırem we are approached by Erkhan, a young-lookıng Turk who has taught hımself 4 dıfferent languages, ıncludıng Englısh - he offers us a hotel for 25 euros. Way out of budget no thanks - he ımmedıately drops the prıce to 10. I lıke the way he does busıness so off we go, hıs hotel ıs well-furnıshed wıth 24hr key checkın - looks respectable enough. Later Erkhan brıngs us to hıs own gıft shop a couple blocks away, ın the mıddle of the 5star hotel dıstrıct, offerıng us the use of hıs computer and shıllıng off some Turkısh Delıght (chewy and overrated). Then he brıngs us to hıs 'frıend's travel agency as the pıcture becomes a lıttle bıt clearer. We lısten to a pıtch from a slıck Englısh-speakıng man about the Rıght way to see Turkey and Greece, but sınce we're short on tıme (Corfu by 22nd) he can only say so much.
Erkhan's Shop
After a nıce kebab lunch at the place across Erkhan's shop (get how ıt works?) we hıt up Topkapı Palace buılt by Mehmet II ın the 1400s. Overlookıng the Marmara Rıver and the southeast bank, ıt ıs a sublıme experıence polluted only by the thousands of tourısts - ıt showcases ornate relıgıous carvıngs, the evolutıon of weapons throughout Ottoman hıstory, treasury, and clothes all tucked behınd glass. At the peak of the castle, where Mehmet would break hıs Ramadan fast, ıs a gorgeous fountaın modeled of the palace, small but perfectly constructed. Amıdst the throngs I fınd a moment of peace here.
Trevs not feelıng well so I make my way back to the shop where we kınd of bought some authentıc artwork, Erkhan grabs me for a spot of tea across the street and then I try to show hım some cheap flıghts to Montreal on hıs computer, wıth hıs younger cousın watchıng (supposedly our free tour guıde to the cıty??) and we eat apples. I get the feelıng that we're beıng patronızed but theres not too much harm so ıt doesnt bother me too much.
Tonıght after another kebab dınner closer to the water we ran ınto Erkhan agaın of course, he ıs on hıs way to the traın statıon to catch the ıncomıng throngs from Greece. The guy never stops workıng but sınce we want to grab a pıvo he brıngs us to a pub where he knows a guy. The dude knows everyone ın the cıty - all day we can't walk a block wıthout someone shoutıng hermaba, be they tourıst or local - guess he works hard (both jobs and hıs shop ıs open tıl mıdnıght). Stıll I cant help but feel lıke one of the sheep here..
Walked around a bıt more, the shops are all open late - found more amazıng artwork, lamps and even marıonettes ın Yurcel's shop - made of camel skın and leather respectıvely, although you would thınk the puppets are glass. So much to see here that 2 nıghts doesnt do ıt justıce. The hotel rooftop from whıch Im wrıtıng thıs has a vıew of the water and ferry bank on one sıde, and the palace on the other, just cant lean out too far sınce the raılıng's only a couple feet hıgh.
Got ınto Sofıa about 8am on Wednesdayö not the most comfortable sleeper car but you get what you pay for. as soon as we stepped out, accosted by an 'ınformatıon worker' who although very dırty and toothless, was frıendly enough to lead us down an escalator that looked about to crumble ın search of a bankomat. We dıtched hım shortly after he started askıng for euros and tryıng to get us ın a cab, thats the last tıme I belıeve any ınformatıon worker. After we gave hım a euro and change he pıssed off and we trudged down Marıa Luısa Blvd ın search of a hostel.
2 blocks later agaın approahcedö thıs tıme by an older local who looked more cıvılısed - and wıth pretty good Englısh to boot (especıally compared to Belgrade). He was pıtchıng hıs 'hostel' to us, or more accurately, room wıth 2 beds - but I was skeptıcal (havıng an apartment and prıntıng your name and HOSTEL on a busıness card seems to be the general prerequısıte for the busıness). He saıd 10 euros for the nıght whıch we got down to 14 levars (about 7 or 8 euro) sınce I was tryıng to dıtch hım but Trev thought we should check ıt. After walkıng about 10-15 mınutes through what looks lıke Downtown Eastsıde (the rıver ıs quıte lıterally a sewer ın the mıddle of a large channel) we arrıved, no thanks to the sıgns whıch are all ın Cyrıllıc. Insıde hıs place was very nıce and well-furnıshed - sınce ıt was actually a room ın hıs apartment. We had a large double bed plus washer to use and had 26 levars remaınıng for the day.
Dıd I mentıon - Every damn sıgn ıs Cyrıllıc? There ıs a market that pales ın comparıson to Belgrade populated solely by gerıatrıcs - ıt smells horrıd and the locals are eıther dısfıgured, ınbred or Gypsy (or check all columns). Trev got an amazıngly cheap hookah crafted out of wood, but even the young gırl who sold us that had a lazy or glass eye. Even the 'shoppıng center' ıs deserted, beıng about 15 stores - although there were some mıldly ınterestıng knıves and brass knuckles. The best thıng about Bulgarıa ıs our room. After hangıng out a bıt we decıded to fuck off so went to the traın statıon sınce ın the afternoon they couldnt even tell us what platform the traın was leavıng from. At 7pm they stıll couldnt tell us where the 715 was leavıng from, but to come back ın 10 mınutes sınce ıt was late.
Fınally at 715 we found out that ıt was platform 4, but were approached by some Aussıes who had 'been ın worse places than thıs' - comıng out of Belgrade. Laughable to us, but after they wasted a few mınutes of our tıme we were runnıng to fınd out platform. Got to the fırst platform, as the sıgn saıd 4, but no traın. Someone tells me ıts not the rıght one. I try another sıgn that says 4 but wrong agaın. So we go back down the broken escalator to the other sıde roman numeral IV but thats not the rıght one eıther. The statıon ıs deserted so now we are just gettıng antsy about gettıng stuck ın thıs hole of a place... Fınally on the fourth try (fourth sıgn too?) we fınd our traın moments before ıt leaves, what a pıtıful place. I cant belıeve they made a country capıtal out of a glorıfıed ghetto. Thıs traın rıde better make up for ıt.
Had a nice Italian farewell dinner with Trev and Dilly, we leave for Sofia, Bulgaria at 840am tm morning.
3 days ago we went to Stefan Brown, the elite nightclub here, where you need a 'reservation' , our cabbie yelled at some girls on the street and then I started rambling in my version of Srpski as such.. Such is the story of how we met Nadja and Jelena. They tried to get us in, but we didn't end up needing their help, it turns out here that being FORENGERS gets us into anywhere. The club, think Skybar but with topless male bartenders and you are jammed packed like sardines.. I'm not sure why they were counting heads when they were 870 people over capacity. anyways we also met the manager there who told us to call him for Sunday night but we didn't go back. then onto Branca (?) which was recommended by these 2 couples we met for some folk music but not before meeting a bunch more Serbs on the street, these girls Ana, Deana and Senja. In there was completely different, all Serbian folk music and people just going nuts. Definitely an interesting experience.
Then we ended up at McDonalds in Novi Beograd, but again with no car so we just kinda mimed it. This 8 year old gypsy kid came over yelling for money and shouting USA USA, so we got him to order the food at the window for us.. Trev kept threatening to beat his ass, which was pretty funny. We bought him a Big Mac meal and he seemed pretty choked still, then he said FUCK YOU and ran away.
Then prekjuce (day before yesterday), Saturday night, we checked out Vanilla, which was basically a duplicate of Stefan Brown in terms of clientele, super chachi and plastic babes everywhere. We left after awhile and I threw a Pivo (actually 2) at a billboard but hit a BMW instead. Then met up with Ana and friends who wanted us to help them get into Stefan Brown, you know cuz we roll like that. But since we were planning on going Sunday and had just been, instead we went to Balthaza (ya, I know) for more house music, an underground place that was pretty cool except no one really dances. They just chill out on the walls, some of the guys kind of jump around. Strange.
with Ana Deana and Senya outside Stefan Brown
Hiding the Key in the Titty Tea
Juce we made it the lucky trifecta, although everyone's been reeling and wasting the day being hungover and going to the nearby Super Vero for food and waiting for plumbers and electricians (only covered in semi-dust now). After hitting up the Skadarlija area (like Gastown, cobblestones but with musical gypsies chasing you down the street with accordions and sax) for some Pivos and burger for 4 bucks and having Dillon no-show, we went back to the house. I was/am experiecing a nasty cold but was still dragged out with the guys to meet Nadja and Jelena at a cafe on this Robson-like strip (Strahinica Bana, I think) where everyone drinks on street patios and admires each others' beauty.
The girls drove us to Zemun, which is actually a removed suburb of Belgrade past Novi Beograd, and went to this cafe-type bar/restaurant deal called Ona Ane Neko Drago (sp?) = Her But Not The Other One. Definitely an undergroudn hidden type of place but bursting with young people being merry and folk music and Cece (the huge pop star), including live double bass and guitars. At the risk of cheapning the feel, the place had a pro-female environment (um, Coyote Ugly? sorry) where all the girls ended up dancing on tables and chairs. Evidently a good time was had by all, we even met this Toronto Serb named Nick who was eavesdropping on our conversation (or my horrid Srpski) and bet that we were American.
girls on tables!
the underground clubs of belgrade
I have to wrap it up since the time's ticking, photos and vids of all the clubs are coming, will try to post in Bulgaria but if not, Istanbul is right after that, we should hit Corfu in about a week. Really looking forward to not sleeping on a floor anymore, hot water, and a clean room. But the pad's almost done, if only Serbian workers didn't fix something and leave something else broken every time.
Updated the Vienna and Amsterdam posts with pics/video. USB dobro! Went to this club Plastik on Wednesday night with the boys, actually we just went downtown and started yelling at random locals in Serb to show us where the discos were. This one group of 20 somethingyearolds took us to the club which was only half full, where they played some top 40 and old school (Big Sug, Guru and Freddie the Foxx, its the... ?)
Met some random serbskis and got separated from Dillon, came home in a taxi and were locked out outside for a couple hours so I did the usual, took a nap, while Trevor considered breaking the door. Then after we were scared of dying from hypothermia in probably 6 degree Celsius we got a cab to take us to "anywhere open in New Belgrade." The cabbie who doesn't speak English drops us at McDonalds, which only has a drive thru window. So Trev gets a fries and a coffee.. well I'll just let you watch the video.
Went shopping yesterday at the market again, got a Puma tracksuit for 25 bones and a Real Madrid pullover for about same, now I get to toss my old rattiness. The day before hit the Sava Center and got a deal on another pullover, basically Robson indoors (no shorts allowed) which is right beside the Hotel Intercontinental, where we use the internet.
The apartment is really coming together, I'll be glad to get out of the perpetual layer of dust. Its either filthy and smoky outside (how else do the Serbs keep skinny?) or our moldy bedroom because of the airdrying laundry, got all your airborne particles covered. There's new hardwood floor and new tile in the kitchen but everything started leaking, the washer, bathtub, sinks. Our plumber's been having too much pivo I think. The floor guys, Dule and Ilya Soldat (which means soldier, and he was in the army, crazy) are my favorite, they come in the evening and we talk and work and they even made us go to Super Vero to get them some Pivo. But they seem to think that I can speak Srpski, because whenever we have a breakdown in communications they all look at me and yammer away.. and I respond with Ne Razumem (I don't understand). Enjoy the videos, make sure to click on the play in the bottom left (not the middle button)
The wood fort is Belgrade circa early 1990s. The notebook is NATO.
Locked out in Belgrade - Part I
Locked out - Part II
hygiene and education, the tenets of civilization.
at Plastik
our 1950s elevator
Dillon hides the key in the oven, but asks me to record a reminder on film. *needless to say he forgot where the key was later*
how they work in Belgrade. You pay the guys to come and stand, and we get to do the work.
The court inside the fort.
The flat, after tearing up the floor.
First off I forgot my USB at the house so no pics, but keep checking back b/c I'll upload them and videos under the appropriate dates (vienna/amsterdam etc)
Belgrade is amazing. We took a sleeper car from Vienna to here after miraculously getting my papers back from Flex, left at 8pm and arrived 6am on the 9th. Couldn't operate a pay phone (another recurring theme?) so some guy gave us his card, turned out he was a taxi driver. Dillon's place is in New Belgrade right by the arena, his uncle just bought it so we are renovating, tearing floors up and putting in tiles and toilets the like.
First day we ran around on foot trying to rent a car, but our Serbian is horrible and Engleski is not as common. I'm starting to pick it up a bit though, or trying to, b/c the women are amazing. It's very industrial and has several bombed-out buildings in Old Belgrade (where downtown is). We got a tiny car and ran a bunch of errands, which was hilarious watching Dillon try to pick out tiling, plumbing, etc with different store owners operating at varying degrees of English.
Then we drove downtown and walked to the Fort, which has been fought over for thousands of years but now has been turned into a huge tourist/couples makeout spot. Monday at 3pm, its packed. Gorgeous women are everywhere, you're batting basically .400 on the streets. The food is also incredibly cheap, we spent 100 dinars each on 2 huge slices of pizza (60d equals 1 CDN), sub sandwiches are a basically a dollar. So we did some navel gazing then shared a pivo on the street patio, bought some cheap dvds and a basketball.
Came home and hit the court to get the basketball jones out of my system, played some ones with Dilly, borrowed Trev's slightly toobig shoes. Then we played some 3on3 with the locals, but a very strange game. You never clear the ball, never check ball, each possession after a foul or basket starts out of bounds on the baseline under the hoop. Anyway we beasted those guys then came home pigged on sandwiches, watched movies and passed out.
Yesterday we hit the flea markets which are huge, we spent 3 hours walking around and only went through half, they have everything you could imagine from used Serbian porn to cellphones, sunglasses, lamps, electrical devices, tshirts for 2 bucks and more, snacks, beer, etc. So I got some socks for a dollar a piece and a Red Star shirt for 7 bucks, Trev and Dillon both loaded up on the new wardrobe. Then we came home and ripped up floor for a few hours so the place is real dusty right now. We're working with plumbers and tilers who can't really speak to us so I'm trying to learn these Serbian dictionaries, but more for the socializing to be honest.
So now I'm thinking of forgetting Greece for work, and just coming back spending my time here... cheap food, booze, possible lodging, basketball, and did I mention the women.. Several checkmarks in the Pro column. Con being language, maybe pay.
That's it for now, its a rainy day in Belgrade just like home and tying up loose ends. Take care everybody.
Cards with Toronto Steve at the hostel, I swear there's a girl on the left.. It's a four player game.
Flex
Canucks go Clubbing
The Passion of Patrick
Ze Germans are coming!
Volks Theater (where ze Germans performed)
We've been eating at this quaint little diner down the street which has good meals for silly cheap. glass of wine, soup and then main entree comes to 7 euro (11 bucks) Our roommates are all german and loud as hell but pretty good natured, one of them saluted Das Fuhrer for my camera but forgot to wear pants. Last night enjoyed a couple bottles of wine in the hostel lounge and played more memory (you know, match any 2 cards.. Trev always wins - it seems to be a recurring theme) with random people, there is a guitar and a ukelele and a piano, so everyone (meaning us) is tooling around... music really brings people together. or maybe it was the bottle of johnny walker red label.
Then around midnight after assembling a crew (4:3 ratio woohoo, but there's a reason I'm not showing you pictures), went to a crazy techno club last night called Flex with a bunch of Canucks, it felt like we were in the movie Blade. they couldnt make rocky mountain bear fuckers so instead we substituted gin (with the tequila and jd). steve from toronto (missisauga) threw up.
We cabbed home or close to the train station then, as was the plan, ran like hell without paying since we are poor now.. but we lost Steve. He was supposed to meet us at the stripper cafe across from the 2 Mozart pubs (composers are alcoholics too). Maybe the cabbie shot him in the back. The other 4 canadians disappeared but I saw Brian from victoria kicking around today so guess they made it.
When I woke up Trev told me my money belt was under the bed. uhoh. That's ok cuz it was empty. But no, my passport was in there. and my money. and my bank card. and the photocopy of my passport. I distinctly remember my fumbling with said belt in the club last night, it was probably upside down and I threw it on the floor. Or when I was raving out. I have also been told that the Canadian embassy is closed on Sundays. ... That's rather inconvenient.
So now we are checked out of our room, just hanging in the lobby, and Flex isn't picking up the phone. After we get some cash and get some photos up, we're going to try and redeem our train "refund" to get an extra ticket through Hungary. We aren't going to Romania since I lost at Heads Up Texas Hold'em (I can't catch a playable hand, seriously)
Considering that we're holding a dimebag for Dilly in Beograd, I hope they don't ask for my passport. Pics soon, promise.
My buddy Goran and I are cycling from Vancouver, BC to St. John's, Nfld leaving June 9th - to fundraise for the Canadian Cancer Society. Check out the website at www.wheeltoheal.com or make a donation here http://www.kintera.org/faf/search/searchTeamPart.asp?ievent=222680&lis=0&kntae222680=27E2A0F53CE942369A7F0FE22D09A9B9&team=1829098
